Once again, apologies for being a bit behind with these posts. And I suppose I should apologize again for the length of this particular one, but I'll try to keep it interesting :) The following shots are from my trip to Normandie and Mt. Saint-Michele with my program. It was a wonderful weekend and I hope you can have a little taste of the beautiful coast.
American Memorial
We began our first day at the World War II museum and then on to the American memorial. The museum was very nice, giving a perspective of the war as a whole, as well as some specifics about the French and their role, which was a bit refreshing compared the normal American approach: The Holocaust was horrible. We invaded. We won and saved Europe. Huzzah America.
I'm not trying to diminish the United States' role in the war. And neither are the French. There's a quote on a large wall in the lobby of the museum that said something to the effect of "For the 10, 000 men who died to liberate our country." They gave us the land for the memorial. We actually own it. But the French also do not forget that the war was more than just one more victory lap for democracy.
The museum's exhibit on occupied France really put that quote on the wall in perspective. There were propaganda pamphlets that the Nazis handed out to the people, photos of the grand monuments covered in wooden boxes with posters on them, descriptions of the POW's effort to paint murals to cope. I think it was hard for Americans across the sea then, as it still is, to comprehend that the Nazis' didn't just "possess" France, but enslaved them, not in the way the blacks were enslaved with whips and fieldwork but psychologically, helpless and completely ignorant of all that was happening. And I'm not sure which would be worse.
After the memorial, we went to the coast where there were giant holes from the bombs and cement hideouts and mounts for weapons. Some of the stuff had been destroyed, but these huge blocks of concrete are still there.
In my class on Southern literature last semester, we talked about the American Civil War and how it makes the culture of the deep South different in that they were, and because of that still are, the losers. Everyone knows that France is not a military super power, but I find it easy to forget how that impacts a people. In this particular instance, I think it made them grateful. Grateful for the end of the war, for their their allies, for freedom. And that's something I think I can learn from.
The Market
My program kindly booked our hotel by the harbor in Caen, which was just gorgeous as the sun was coming up that morning. The streets outside the hotel were completely filled with vendors for the Sunday morning market. I wanted to stay longer and eat my way around, but alas.
But of course there wasn't just flowers and food for sale...
Mom, I took these just for you.
You would have loved it :)
Why yes, that is a tower sitting in the middle of road.
The whole morning was exactly what you think of when you think of cute little French town. I wouldn't mind going back just for that someday.
Mt. Saint-Michele
This was one of the events I was most excited about for the trip: an island with a town that wraps around to the top where there's an old abbey and church. It was marvelous and we were lucky to have sunshine.
What's so unfortunate about this place is how touristy it's become. I heard that before I came and immediately thought, "Well, duh. But so is Notre Dame and that's still amazing." But this place is different. There are still something like 45 people who still live on this island but you would never know it. All you can really see are tourist shops and overly quaint restaurants and suddenly even the chipping paint just seems a little too perfect.
Thankfully, we had a really wonderful tour guide who gave us a lot more background on the island and made it seem more real, but even then, stories of saints and monks don't even really feel real now.
This is a garden toward the top of the mountain. It's strange to feel the relief of this garden when you're surrounded by beautiful coastline, but it is a comfort nonetheless. I'm not exactly sure why.
From a window by the garden.
In the story of the founding of Saint-Michele, Aubert, Bishop of Avranches was visited in a dream by the saint himself. He told him that he was to build a church. Aubert didn't take the dream seriously, and so it repeated two more times. The third time, Saint-Michele put a finger to Aubert's forehead and burned a hole in it. Then the bishop decided he would build the church. Lovely story, huh?
Saint-Michele atop the steeple.
The meaning of all this church and the references to Christ throughout seemed so muddled to me. Perhaps it was because I was snapping photos the whole time. It was hard not to because everything looked so perfect in its wearied state. In truth, I much preferred the market. It was not exactly as impressive, but it didn't feel like a fantasy. You got to have a little grit or nothing feels real.
Until next time...